Two leather jackets can look similar on a hanger and feel completely different on your shoulders. The difference is usually the leather itself. Most jackets are made from sheepskin, cowhide or suede, and each one has its own weight, softness and personality. Here is how they compare, so you can choose before you buy.
Left to right: shearling-lined sheepskin, black cowhide and tan suede.
Sheepskin: soft, light and easy to wear
Sheepskin (often sold as sheep napa) is the softest of the three. It is thin, supple and drapes close to the body, which makes it comfortable from the first day, with very little breaking in. Because it is light, it suits slimmer cuts, blazers, shirt jackets and fitted women's styles.
- Feel: buttery, smooth and lightweight.
- Best for: all-day comfort, tailored shapes and mild to cool weather.
- Keep in mind: the thin hide can mark more easily than thicker leather, so treat it gently.
Cowhide: tough, structured and built to last
Cowhide is thicker and firmer. It holds its shape well, takes years of wear and develops a rich character as it creases and softens. A cowhide jacket feels more substantial from day one, and it needs a little time to relax around you.
- Feel: sturdy and structured, with a slightly firmer hand.
- Best for: classic biker and bomber styles, everyday heavy use and people who like a jacket that gets better with age.
- Keep in mind: it can feel stiff at first and is heavier than sheepskin.
Smooth sheepskin, grained cowhide and napped suede: three different surfaces, three different jackets.
Suede: soft texture and a quieter look
Suede is leather that has been finished on the flesh side to create a soft, velvety nap. It looks warm and relaxed, and it takes dye in deep, rich shades. It is gentler to the eye than a shiny smooth leather, but also more sensitive.
- Feel: velvety and soft to the touch.
- Best for: a relaxed, vintage look in earthy colors like tan, chocolate and camel.
- Keep in mind: suede marks more easily and does not like rain, so it needs more care. Our guide to caring for a leather jacket covers brushing and drying it properly.
Side by side
- Softest right away: sheepskin.
- Most rugged: cowhide.
- Warmest-looking texture: suede.
- Lightest to wear: sheepskin.
- Least fuss to look after: smooth cowhide or sheepskin, since suede needs the most care.
How to choose
- Think about how you will wear it. A jacket you wear every day, in all weather, suits cowhide. One for dressing up or for mild days suits sheepskin.
- Be honest about upkeep. If you do not want to brush and protect it, avoid suede.
- Match the leather to the cut. Fitted and tailored shapes look best in soft leather. Boxy and structured shapes look best in firmer leather.
- Not sure which leather a jacket is made from? Ask us before you order and we will tell you.
Ready to look? Browse men's jackets and women's jackets, or if you know exactly what you want, design your own and choose the leather yourself. Not sure about color? Read how to choose a leather jacket color next.
